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Steered by an entrepreneurial chief, Membertou First Nation in Nova Scotia led the largest investment by Indigenous people in Canada’s seafood industry.

The trip through Cape Breton Island, on the northeastern tip of Nova Scotia, promised scenic driving views. The island regularly appears in travel guides for the world’s best road trips, an agent at the airport’s car rental counter told me in September after I landed in Halifax.

Chief Terry Paul of Membertou First Nation was re-elected in June, his 40th consecutive year leading the community.Andrew Testa for The New York Times

I didn’t get to take in much of the landscape on my rainy overnight drive to Cape Breton from the other end of the province, where I had been reporting on a forthcoming story related to lobster fishing. Over the course of my interviews, several people suggested that I visit an Indigenous community on

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